How to Repair Leaking Kitchen Faucet: Easy DIY Fixes

Can you fix dripping tap water? Yes, most leaking kitchen faucets can be fixed with simple DIY methods, often saving you the cost of a plumber for straightforward plumbing repair. This guide will walk you through the common causes of leaks and how to stop faucet leak issues yourself.

A dripping faucet is more than just an annoyance; it’s a waste of water and can increase your utility bills. Fortunately, many common faucet problems can be tackled by homeowners with a few basic tools and a bit of patience. Whether you’re dealing with a steady drip from the spout or a leak around the handle, this comprehensive guide will help you identify the issue and perform the necessary DIY faucet fix. We’ll cover everything from identifying the type of faucet you have to replacing worn-out parts.

How To Repair Leaking Kitchen Faucet
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Identifying Your Faucet Type

Before you can begin any kitchen sink repair, it’s crucial to know what kind of faucet you have. This will determine the parts you need and the specific steps for repair. The four most common types of kitchen faucets are:

Compression Faucets: These are older types of faucets that use rubber washers to stop water flow. They have separate hot and cold handles that you tighten down to stop the water. These are prone to washer wear.
Cartridge Faucets: These faucets have a single handle that moves up and down for volume and side to side for temperature. They use a cartridge, a self-contained unit that controls water flow, which can become damaged or worn.
Ball Faucets: Similar to cartridge faucets, these also have a single handle. They use a metal or plastic ball with slots to control water flow and mix hot and cold water. They can be a bit more complex to repair.
Ceramic Disc Faucets: These are the most modern and durable type. They have a single handle and use two ceramic discs that slide against each other to control water. While durable, the discs can crack or seals can fail.

Knowing your faucet type will help you purchase the correct leaky faucet repair kit or individual parts.

Essential Tools for Your DIY Faucet Fix

Gathering the right tools before you start will make the process smoother and prevent frustration. Here’s a list of common tools you’ll likely need:

Adjustable wrench
Pliers (slip-joint or channel-lock)
Screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead, various sizes)
Allen wrenches (hex keys)
Utility knife or small putty knife
Penetrating oil (like WD-40)
Rags or old towels
Bucket
Plumber’s grease
Replacement parts (washers, O-rings, cartridge, etc.)

It’s a good idea to have a leaky faucet repair kit on hand, especially if you’re unsure of the exact problem. These kits often contain a variety of common O-rings and washers that fit most faucet types.

Common Faucet Problems and How to Fix Them

Let’s dive into the most frequent reasons your kitchen faucet might be leaking and how to address them.

The Dripping Spout: A Classic Problem

A constant drip from the faucet spout is the most common issue. This usually means a worn-out part inside the faucet is allowing water to seep through.

For Compression Faucets: Replacing the Faucet Washer

The culprit behind a dripping compression faucet is almost always a worn-out rubber washer at the base of the valve stem. This washer presses against the valve seat to stop water flow. When it wears out, it can no longer create a tight seal.

Steps to Replace a Faucet Washer:

Turn Off the Water Supply: This is the most critical first step. Look for the shut-off valves under the sink. Turn them clockwise until they stop. If you don’t have individual shut-off valves or they don’t work, you’ll need to turn off the main water supply to your house. Open the faucet to drain any remaining water and relieve pressure.
Remove the Handle: You’ll typically find a decorative cap on top of the handle. Pry this off gently with a utility knife or small screwdriver. Beneath the cap, you’ll see a screw. Unscrew it, and then pull the handle straight up and off. It might be stuck; a gentle wiggle or a bit of penetrating oil can help.
Remove the Packing Nut/Bonnet Nut: Underneath the handle, you’ll see a metal nut. This is often called the packing nut or bonnet nut. Use an adjustable wrench to loosen and remove it by turning it counter-clockwise. Be careful not to scratch the finish of your faucet.
Remove the Valve Stem: Once the packing nut is off, you should be able to pull out the valve stem. It might need a slight wiggle. At the bottom of the stem, you’ll find the rubber washer held in place by a screw.
Replace the Washer: Unscrew the old washer. You may need to pry off a metal retaining washer first. Take the old washer to your local hardware store to ensure you get an exact match. Install the new washer and secure it with the screw. You can also apply a little plumber’s grease to the new washer to help it seal and last longer.
Reassemble the Faucet: Insert the valve stem back into the faucet body. Screw on the packing nut/bonnet nut and tighten it with the wrench. Reattach the handle and screw it back in place. Replace the decorative cap.
Turn Water Back On: Slowly turn the water supply valves back on. Check for leaks around the handle and from the spout.

For Cartridge Faucets: Replacing the Cartridge

If you have a single-handle faucet that drips, the problem is likely with the internal cartridge.

Steps to Replace a Faucet Cartridge:

Turn Off the Water Supply: As always, locate and turn off the hot and cold water shut-off valves under the sink. Open the faucet to drain residual water.
Remove the Handle: Most single-handle faucets have a decorative cap or cover, often hiding a set screw. This set screw might be on the side or front of the handle base. You might need an Allen wrench to loosen it. Once the screw is loose, the handle should lift or pull off.
Remove the Retaining Clip or Nut: After removing the handle, you’ll see the cartridge. It might be held in place by a retaining clip or a threaded nut.
- Retaining Clip: This is usually a U-shaped piece of metal. Use needle-nose pliers or a flathead screwdriver to gently pull it straight up and out.
- Retaining Nut: Some faucets have a large nut that holds the cartridge. Use an adjustable wrench to unscrew it counter-clockwise.
Remove the Cartridge: With the clip or nut removed, you should be able to pull the cartridge straight up and out. It might be stuck. Some faucets come with a special tool to help remove the cartridge, or you can try wiggling it gently with pliers. Note the orientation of the old cartridge, as the new one needs to be installed in the same way.
Install the New Cartridge: Take the old cartridge to the store to find an identical replacement. Some cartridges have specific alignment tabs. Ensure these are properly seated. Gently push the new cartridge into the faucet body.
Reassemble: Reinstall the retaining clip or nut. Make sure it’s securely in place. Reattach the handle and tighten the set screw. Replace any decorative covers.
Turn Water Back On: Slowly turn the water supply back on. Test the faucet for leaks.

For Ball Faucets: Replacing Seals and Springs

Ball faucets are a bit more intricate, involving a rotating ball mechanism, springs, and rubber seals.

Steps to Repair a Ball Faucet:

Turn Off Water and Drain: Shut off the water supply under the sink. Open the faucet to drain.
Remove the Handle: Similar to cartridge faucets, find and loosen the set screw holding the handle, then remove the handle.
Remove the Cap and Collar: You’ll see a cap and a collar covering the ball mechanism. Use pliers to loosen and remove the collar. The cap might unscrew.
Remove the Ball: Lift out the ball. Note its orientation, especially the small slot that fits over a pin in the faucet body.
Replace Seals and Springs: Inside the faucet body, you’ll see two rubber seals with springs underneath them. Use a small screwdriver or a pick to carefully remove the old seals and springs. Place the new springs into the faucet body, followed by the new rubber seals, ensuring they are seated correctly.
Reassemble: Place the ball back into its housing, aligning the slot with the pin. Replace the cap and collar, tightening them securely. Reattach the handle and tighten its set screw.
Turn Water On and Test: Slowly turn the water supply back on and check for leaks.

For Ceramic Disc Faucets: Replacing Seals

While generally reliable, ceramic disc faucets can develop leaks if the seals around the discs wear out or if the ceramic discs themselves are damaged.

Steps to Repair a Ceramic Disc Faucet:

Turn Off Water Supply: Shut off the water under the sink and drain the faucet.
Remove the Handle: Look for a decorative cap and loosen the set screw to remove the handle.
Remove the Escutcheon and Cartridge: You’ll find a metal escutcheon or cover. Unscrew this. Beneath it is the ceramic disc cartridge. This is usually held in place by screws or a retaining nut. Remove these.
Inspect and Replace Seals: Carefully lift out the ceramic disc cartridge. Check the rubber seals at the bottom of the faucet body. If they appear worn, brittle, or damaged, replace them. You can often buy a specific leaky faucet repair kit for ceramic disc faucets that includes new seals and sometimes even new discs.
Clean and Reassemble: Clean the faucet body and the ceramic disc cartridge. If the discs themselves look damaged (cracked), the entire cartridge may need to be replaced. Reinsert the cartridge, making sure it’s aligned correctly, and secure it with the screws or nut. Reattach the escutcheon and the handle.
Turn Water On and Test: Slowly turn the water back on and check for leaks.

Leaks Around the Handle

If your faucet leaks only when the water is turned on, or if water seeps out from around the handle, the issue is often a worn-out O-ring or packing.

Replacing the O-Ring

The O-ring is a small rubber ring that creates a seal around the valve stem or spindle.

Steps to Replace an O-Ring:

Turn Off Water and Disassemble Handle: Follow the steps for handle removal specific to your faucet type to expose the valve stem or spindle.
Locate and Remove the O-Ring: As you pull out the valve stem or spindle, you’ll likely see one or more O-rings. They are usually located on the stem itself, often near the top or around the base. Use a small screwdriver or pick to carefully pry off the old O-ring.
Lubricate and Install New O-Ring: Take the old O-ring to the store to find an exact match. Apply a thin layer of plumber’s grease to the new O-ring. This helps it seal properly and prevents premature wear. Slide the new O-ring onto the stem in the same position as the old one.
Reassemble: Reinsert the stem, reattach the packing nut (if applicable), and then the handle.
Turn Water On and Test: Turn the water supply back on and check for leaks. If you have a compression faucet, tightening the packing nut slightly might also stop faucet leak around the handle.

Tightening the Packing Nut (Compression Faucets)

Sometimes, a leak around the handle of a compression faucet is simply due to the packing nut being loose.

Steps to Tighten the Packing Nut:

Identify the Packing Nut: This is the nut located just below the faucet handle, which surrounds the valve stem.
Gently Tighten: Using an adjustable wrench, carefully tighten the packing nut a quarter-turn clockwise.
Test: Turn on the water briefly to see if the leak has stopped. If it hasn’t, try tightening it another quarter-turn. Be careful not to overtighten, as this can make the handle difficult to turn or damage the packing material.

If tightening doesn’t work, the packing material (which can be string-like or a rubber washer) inside the packing nut may be worn and needs replacement, similar to replacing an O-ring.

Leaks from the Base of the Spout

A leak at the base of the spout, especially on faucets with swiveling spouts, usually indicates worn O-rings where the spout meets the faucet body.

Steps to Replace Spout O-Rings:

Turn Off Water Supply: Shut off the water and drain the faucet.
Remove the Spout: The method for removing the spout varies by faucet design.
- Set Screw: Some spouts are held in place by a set screw at the back or side of the faucet body. Loosen this screw.
- Decorative Cap/Clip: Some newer faucets might have a decorative cap that unscrews, revealing a retaining nut or clip that holds the spout.
- Lift and Twist: For some spouts, you might simply need to pull upwards while wiggling to detach it.
Locate and Replace O-Rings: Once the spout is removed, you’ll see one or more O-rings on the faucet body where the spout sat. Carefully remove the old O-rings and replace them with new ones of the same size. Lubricate the new O-rings with plumber’s grease.
Reassemble: Slide the spout back into place, ensuring it’s properly seated. Reinstall any set screws, caps, or clips.
Turn Water On and Test: Turn the water supply back on and check for leaks at the base of the spout.

Troubleshooting Beyond the Basics

If you’ve gone through these steps and the leak persists, or if you encounter a problem not covered here, consider these points:

Valve Seat Issues: In older compression faucets, the metal valve seat that the washer presses against can become corroded or pitted, preventing a good seal. You can sometimes replace the valve seat using a special valve seat wrench.
Cracked Faucet Body: Though rare, a hairline crack in the faucet body can cause leaks. This usually requires replacing the entire faucet.
Improper Installation: If the faucet was recently installed or repaired by someone else, it might not have been assembled correctly.

When to Call a Professional Plumber

While many common faucet problems are easily fixed with DIY methods, there are times when it’s best to call a professional plumber.

Uncertainty: If you’re not confident in your ability to perform the repair, it’s better to seek expert help to avoid causing further damage.
Persistent Leaks: If you’ve tried several fixes and the leak continues, there might be a more complex underlying issue.
Corroded or Damaged Parts: If critical parts of your faucet are heavily corroded or damaged, professional tools and expertise might be needed.
Main Water Line Issues: If you suspect a problem with the water supply lines or valves under the sink, a plumber can diagnose and fix it.
Specialty Faucets: Some high-end or specialized faucets might have unique repair procedures that are best left to experienced professionals.

Preventative Maintenance for Your Kitchen Faucet

Regular maintenance can help prevent leaks and extend the life of your faucet.

Regular Cleaning: Clean your faucet regularly to prevent mineral buildup, which can damage seals and O-rings.
Gentle Operation: Avoid forcing the faucet handles. Operate them smoothly to prevent undue stress on internal components.
Address Minor Leaks Promptly: Don’t ignore small drips. Fixing them early can prevent them from worsening and causing more significant damage.
Inspect Seals Annually: Consider a yearly check of visible O-rings and seals, especially if you have hard water.

Fixing a leaking kitchen faucet is a rewarding DIY project that can save you money and conserve water. By following these steps and using the right tools, you can keep your kitchen sink in good working order and stop faucet leak problems effectively.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q1: How often should I replace faucet washers?
A1: Faucet washers don’t have a set replacement schedule. They need replacing when they show signs of wear, such as becoming hard, cracked, or flattened. This wear is often indicated by a dripping spout.

Q2: Can I use Teflon tape on faucet threads?
A2: Teflon tape (PTFE tape) is primarily used on threaded pipe connections to seal against leaks. For faucet internal repairs, like on valve stems or cartridges, plumber’s grease is more appropriate for lubricating and sealing O-rings and seals. Using Teflon tape on internal faucet threads can sometimes interfere with proper sealing or assembly.

Q3: My faucet handle is loose. How do I tighten it?
A3: A loose faucet handle is usually caused by a loose set screw or a worn-out O-ring. First, try to locate and tighten the set screw that secures the handle to the valve stem or cartridge. If that doesn’t work, you may need to disassemble the handle assembly to replace a worn O-ring or tighten the packing nut (on compression faucets).

Q4: What’s the difference between an O-ring and a washer in a faucet?
A4: In faucets, both O-rings and washers are types of seals. A washer is typically a flat, disc-shaped piece of rubber that presses against a valve seat to stop water flow, common in compression faucets. An O-ring is a circular, donut-shaped ring that fits into a groove and creates a seal around a spindle, stem, or spout, preventing leaks at those connection points.

Q5: How do I know if I need a leaky faucet repair kit or a new cartridge?
A5: If your faucet drips from the spout and you have a compression-style faucet, you likely need replacement washers. If you have a single-handle faucet (cartridge, ball, or ceramic disc) and the drip or leak is coming from the spout or handle area, you’ll likely need to replace the entire cartridge or the specific internal components (like seals and springs for ball faucets). A leaky faucet repair kit can be useful if you have an older faucet with various potential washer or O-ring needs, but for modern single-handle faucets, replacing the specific cartridge is often the most direct solution.