Yes, you can install crown molding on kitchen cabinets yourself! It’s a fantastic way to add a touch of elegance and sophistication to your kitchen, giving it a custom, high-end look without breaking the bank. This guide will walk you through the entire process, from choosing the right molding to the final finishing touches. Let’s transform your kitchen with this accessible DIY project.
Choosing Your Cabinet Crown Molding
The first step in your DIY kitchen cabinet trim project is selecting the perfect cabinet crown molding. The type of molding you choose can significantly impact the final aesthetic. There are several popular types of cabinet crown molding, each offering a distinct style and installation method.
Popular Molding Profiles:
- Simple Crown Molding: This is a classic and versatile choice. It typically has a curved profile that sits at a 45-degree angle between the cabinet and the ceiling. It’s relatively easy to cut and install, making it a great option for beginners.
- Roped Crown Molding: This style features a decorative rope-like design carved into the molding. It adds a more traditional and ornate feel to your cabinets.
- Dentil Molding: Characterized by a series of small, regularly spaced blocks, dentil molding offers a more formal and architectural look.
- Victorian or Ornate Molding: These profiles are often more complex, with intricate carvings and detailed patterns. They make a bold statement but can be more challenging to cut and fit.
- MDF vs. Wood: Medium-Density Fiberboard (MDF) is an affordable and smooth option, ideal for painting. Real wood (like pine, oak, or maple) offers durability and a premium look, suitable for staining or painting.
Considerations when choosing:
- Cabinet Style: Match the molding to your existing cabinet doors and overall kitchen decor. A modern kitchen might suit a simple profile, while a traditional kitchen could benefit from something more decorative.
- Ceiling Height: Taller ceilings can accommodate wider and more elaborate molding profiles. Lower ceilings might look best with simpler, narrower molding to avoid overwhelming the space.
- Budget: MDF is generally less expensive than solid wood. More intricate profiles also tend to cost more.
Essential Tools and Materials for Cabinet Molding Installation
Before you start attaching crown molding to cabinets, gather all your tools and materials. Having everything on hand will make the cabinet crown molding installation smoother and more efficient.
Tools You’ll Need:
- Miter Saw: Crucial for making accurate angled cuts. A compound miter saw is ideal as it can tilt both ways.
- Measuring Tape: For precise measurements of your cabinets and molding.
- Pencil: For marking cuts and pilot holes.
- Stud Finder: To locate wall studs for secure attachment of the molding.
- Safety Glasses: Always protect your eyes when cutting or using power tools.
- Hearing Protection: Essential when operating power saws.
- Clamps: To hold molding pieces in place while glue dries or when fastening.
- Coping Saw or Jigsaw (Optional): Useful for intricate inside corner cuts.
- Caulk Gun: For applying paintable caulk.
- Paint Brush or Roller: For applying primer and paint.
- Putty Knife: For applying wood filler or putty.
- Drop Cloths: To protect your countertops and floor from dust and paint.
- Level: To ensure your molding is installed straight.
- Drill/Driver: For pre-drilling pilot holes and driving screws.
- Nail Gun (Brad Nailer or Finish Nailer): Highly recommended for a clean, professional finish. Use 1 1/2″ or 2″ brad nails.
- Sandpaper (various grits): For smoothing edges and preparing for finishing.
Materials You’ll Need:
- Crown Molding: Measure your cabinet runs carefully. It’s always a good idea to buy at least 10-15% extra for mistakes or tricky cuts.
- Wood Glue: A strong adhesive for joining molding pieces.
- Wood Filler or Putty: To fill nail holes and gaps.
- Paintable Caulk: For filling small gaps between the molding and cabinets/ceiling.
- Primer and Paint: To match your cabinets or create a contrasting look.
- Brad Nails or Finish Nails: For securing the molding.
- Screws (if not using a nail gun or for extra secure attachment): Ensure they are shorter than the molding thickness and can be countersunk.
Preparing Your Kitchen Cabinets for Molding
Proper preparation is key to a successful cabinet cornice installation. This involves cleaning, planning, and ensuring a smooth surface for the molding to adhere to.
Step-by-Step Preparation:
- Clean the Cabinet Tops: Thoroughly clean the top edges of your cabinets. Remove any dust, grease, or debris. This ensures good adhesion for glue and caulk. Use a degreaser if necessary.
- Remove Obstacles: If you have any items on top of your cabinets, remove them. You may also need to temporarily move light fixtures or other items that might be in your way.
- Plan Your Layout: Measure the lengths of each cabinet run where you plan to install the molding. Decide on the direction of your cuts for the corners – will the molding run into the wall or wrap around the cabinet ends?
- Check for Squareness: Use a carpenter’s square to check if your cabinet tops are perfectly square. Minor adjustments might be needed if they are slightly off, but often the molding can compensate for small discrepancies.
- Pre-Drill (Optional but Recommended): For a more secure fit, especially if you don’t have a nail gun, you can pre-drill small pilot holes along the back edge of the molding where it will attach to the cabinets. This prevents the wood from splitting.
Mastering Crown Molding Cuts: The Angle Secret
The most critical part of attaching crown molding to cabinets is making accurate cuts, especially for corners. The best way to install cabinet molding is by understanding the magic of the 45-degree angle.
Understanding the 45-Degree Angle:
Crown molding sits at an angle against the wall and the cabinet face. When you cut it at a 45-degree angle, these pieces will meet perfectly at a 90-degree corner.
Inside Corners:
- The Concept: An inside corner is where two walls meet, or where a cabinet run meets a wall.
- The Cut: To cut an inside corner, you’ll set your miter saw to 45 degrees.
- For the piece that will go on the left side of the corner, place the molding upside down and backwards on your saw. Set the saw to cut at 45 degrees to the left. The long point of the cut should point away from you.
- For the piece that will go on the right side of the corner, place the molding upside down and backwards. Set the saw to cut at 45 degrees to the right. The long point of the cut should point away from you.
- Molding Placed Upside Down: When cutting crown molding, it’s often easiest to place it upside down on the saw, as if it were installed against the ceiling and wall. The base of the molding rests against the saw fence, and the top sits against the saw blade.
Outside Corners:
- The Concept: An outside corner is where two cabinet faces or a cabinet face and a wall protrude outwards.
- The Cut: To cut an outside corner, you’ll also use a 45-degree setting on your miter saw.
- For the piece that will go on the left side of the corner, place the molding upside down and backwards. Set the saw to cut at 45 degrees to the right. The short point of the cut should point away from you.
- For the piece that will go on the right side of the corner, place the molding upside down and backwards. Set the saw to cut at 45 degrees to the left. The short point of the cut should point away from you.
Tips for Accurate Cuts:
- Test Cuts: Always make test cuts on scrap pieces of molding first. This allows you to check the fit before cutting your actual pieces.
- Hold Firmly: Ensure the molding is held firmly against the saw fence and base during the cut.
- Measure Twice, Cut Once: This adage is crucial for cabinet molding techniques.
- Marking: Clearly mark which side of the cut you need.
Cutting Straight Runs:
For the straight sections of your cabinet run, you’ll simply cut the molding to the required length. Measure the length of the cabinet top where the molding will sit and transfer that measurement to your molding. Ensure your cuts are square (90 degrees).
Installing the Crown Molding: Step-by-Step
Now that you have your measurements and your cuts are ready, it’s time for the cabinet crown molding installation. This is where the magic happens, transforming your cabinets with this kitchen cabinet upgrade trim.
The Process:
- Start with a Corner: It’s usually best to begin with an inside or outside corner. This helps establish a reference point for subsequent pieces.
- Dry Fit: Before applying glue or fasteners, hold the first piece of molding in place to ensure a snug fit. Check that the angled cuts meet correctly at the corner.
- Apply Wood Glue: Apply a thin bead of wood glue along the back edges of the molding that will contact the cabinet and the wall.
- Position and Fasten:
- Using a Nail Gun: Place the glued molding into position. Using your nail gun, drive brad nails through the molding into the cabinet top and, if applicable, into the wall (if you have a solid stud behind it). Aim for nails about every 12-18 inches. The nails should go through the thicker part of the molding for strength.
- Without a Nail Gun: Pre-drill pilot holes as mentioned earlier. Then, carefully drive screws through the molding into the cabinet. Countersink the screws slightly so they are below the surface. You’ll need to fill these holes later.
- Wipe Away Excess Glue: Immediately wipe away any excess wood glue that squeezes out with a damp cloth. Dried glue is difficult to remove and can affect finishing.
- Secure Adjacent Pieces: Continue working along the cabinet run, fitting and fastening each piece. For long runs, you might need to join two pieces of molding together with a scarf joint (a long, angled cut of about 30 degrees) to make it appear as one continuous piece. Ensure the joint is glued and securely fastened.
- Working on Upper Cabinets: When installing molding on upper cabinets, you might need a stable step stool or a ladder. Ensure you have a secure footing. You can also use temporary bracing or clamps to hold the molding in place while you fasten it.
- Checking for Level and Flushness: As you install, periodically check with a level to ensure the molding is straight. Also, make sure it sits flush against the cabinet top and doesn’t have significant gaps.
Table: Common Molding Joint Types
| Joint Type | Description | Best Use |
|---|---|---|
| Miter Joint | Two pieces cut at an angle (usually 45 degrees) to meet at a corner. | Inside and outside corners, end caps |
| Scarf Joint | Two pieces cut at a shallow angle (around 30 degrees) and joined end-to-end to create a longer piece. | Joining pieces on long cabinet runs |
| Butt Joint | Two pieces joined end-to-end at a 90-degree angle. Less common for decorative molding, more for trim. | Not typically used for crown molding on cabinets |
Filling and Finishing: The Professional Touch
Once the cabinet crown molding installation is complete, the final steps involve filling any imperfections and finishing the molding to match your kitchen. This cabinet finishing trim work is what truly elevates the look.
Step-by-Step Finishing:
- Fill Nail Holes: Use wood filler or putty to fill all nail holes. Choose a filler that matches your molding material. For painted molding, a paintable filler is essential. Apply the filler with a putty knife, pressing it firmly into the holes. Allow it to dry completely according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
- Sand: Once the filler is dry, sand the filled areas smooth. Use a medium-grit sandpaper (around 120-150 grit) to level the filler, then follow up with a finer grit (220 grit) for a smooth finish. Lightly sand any rough edges on the molding as well.
- Caulk Gaps: Use paintable caulk to fill any small gaps between the molding and the cabinet, or between the molding and the wall/ceiling. This creates a seamless transition and hides any minor imperfections in your cuts or installation. Apply a consistent bead of caulk and then smooth it with a damp finger or a caulk tool. Wipe away excess caulk.
- Prime: Apply a coat of primer to the entire molding. This helps the paint adhere better and ensures an even color. Allow the primer to dry completely.
- Paint: Apply one or two coats of your chosen paint. Use a high-quality paint that matches your cabinets or a contrasting color. If you’re painting, a small foam roller or a good quality brush will give you a smooth finish. Allow each coat to dry thoroughly before applying the next.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: Can I install crown molding on kitchen cabinets if they don’t go all the way to the ceiling?
A: Absolutely! You can install molding on upper cabinets even if there’s a gap between the cabinet top and the ceiling. In this case, the molding essentially acts as a decorative cornice, extending from the cabinet top upwards and outwards. You’ll need to secure it firmly to the cabinet and potentially use small blocks or L-brackets hidden behind the molding for added support against the wall if it doesn’t reach the ceiling.
Q: What is the best way to install cabinet molding if I don’t have a nail gun?
A: If you don’t have a nail gun, the best way to install cabinet molding is by pre-drilling pilot holes and then using screws. Ensure the screws are the appropriate length – they should penetrate the cabinet material sufficiently for a strong hold but not go all the way through. Countersink the screws slightly so they can be easily filled with wood filler. Another option is to use a hammer and finishing nails, but this requires more precision to avoid damaging the molding.
Q: How do I handle a cabinet where the top is not perfectly level or square?
A: For slightly uneven cabinet tops, the cabinet molding techniques involve using shims or judicious caulking. You can place very thin shims behind the molding where needed to create a straighter line. After the molding is secured, use a generous bead of paintable caulk to fill any remaining gaps between the molding and the cabinet or wall.
Q: What if my cabinet crown molding needs to join with existing ceiling crown molding?
A: This requires careful measurement and precise miter cuts where the two moldings meet. You’ll typically use a 45-degree miter cut on both the cabinet molding and the ceiling molding where they intersect. The goal is to create a clean, seamless transition between the two. Sometimes, small filler pieces or custom cuts might be needed to achieve a perfect fit.
Q: How much extra molding should I buy for mistakes?
A: It’s always recommended to buy at least 10-15% extra molding. This accounts for any miscalculations, test cuts, or mistakes made during the cabinet crown molding installation, especially when dealing with angled cuts for corners.
Q: What are the common pitfalls when installing cabinet molding?
A: Common pitfalls include inaccurate angle cuts, not pre-drilling to prevent splitting, failing to use enough glue or fasteners, leaving gaps that aren’t properly caulked, and not cleaning up excess glue promptly. Rushing the process or not planning carefully are also major contributors to less-than-perfect results.
Conclusion: Elevate Your Kitchen with Cabinet Crown Molding
Installing crown molding on your kitchen cabinets is a rewarding DIY project that can significantly enhance the aesthetic appeal of your kitchen. By carefully selecting your molding, gathering the right tools, mastering the cutting techniques, and patiently completing the installation and finishing steps, you can achieve a professional-looking result. This kitchen cabinet upgrade trim adds a touch of custom luxury, making your kitchen feel more complete and sophisticated. Happy building!