Dripping Faucet? How To Fix A Dripping Two Handle Kitchen Faucet

Can you fix a dripping two-handle kitchen faucet yourself? Yes, you absolutely can! Most dripping two-handle kitchen faucets can be fixed with basic tools and a few replacement parts. This guide will walk you through the steps to silence that annoying drip.

A persistent drip from your kitchen faucet isn’t just irritating; it’s a waste of water and can drive up your utility bills. Fortunately, fixing a dripping two-handle kitchen faucet is a common DIY project that most homeowners can tackle. The most frequent culprits are worn-out washers or O-rings, or sometimes a damaged faucet valve seat. This comprehensive guide will delve into the common causes of a dripping kitchen faucet and provide step-by-step instructions for a successful leaky faucet repair, covering everything from identifying the issue to the final tightening.

Pinpointing the Source of the Drip

Before you grab your tools, it’s important to identify which handle is causing the problem. A drip from the spout usually indicates an issue with either the hot or cold water valve. If both handles are turned off tightly and water still drips, the problem likely lies in the main valve assembly or the faucet spout itself.

Essential Tools for the Job

Gathering the right tools before you start will make the process much smoother. Here’s a list of what you’ll likely need for your kitchen sink faucet repair:

Adjustable wrench
Screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead)
Pliers (slip-joint or needle-nose)
Plumber’s grease or silicone grease
Replacement washers, O-rings, or cartridges (depending on your faucet type)
Rag or old towel
Bucket or basin
Penetrating oil (optional, for stubborn parts)
Utility knife or putty knife

Shutting Off the Water Supply: The Crucial First Step

This is the most critical step. Never attempt any faucet repair without first shutting off the water supply.

Locating Your Shut-Off Valves

In most kitchens, you’ll find shut-off valves located directly beneath the sink. There should be two: one for hot water and one for cold water, connected to the pipes leading to your faucet.

Turning Off the Water

Turn the handles of the shut-off valves clockwise until they are snug.
Once the valves are closed, go back to the faucet and turn on both the hot and cold handles to drain any remaining water in the pipes. Open them fully until no more water comes out.

Disassembling the Two-Handle Faucet

Now that the water is off, you can begin taking the faucet apart. The process will vary slightly depending on the brand and model of your faucet, but the general steps are similar.

Removing the Faucet Handles

Look for a decorative cap: Most faucet handles have a small decorative cap on top or on the side. This cap often hides a screw.
Pry off the cap: Gently pry off the cap using a flathead screwdriver or a utility knife. Be careful not to scratch the finish.
Unscrew the handle: Use the appropriate screwdriver to remove the screw holding the handle in place.
Pull off the handle: Once the screw is removed, the handle should lift straight off the faucet stem. If it’s stuck, a gentle wiggle or a specialized faucet handle puller might be needed. Avoid forcing it, as this can damage the handle or the stem.

Accessing the Inner Components

With the handle removed, you’ll see the internal workings of the faucet.

The Packing Nut and Bonnet Nut

Beneath the handle, you’ll typically find a packing nut or a bonnet nut. This nut holds the valve stem in place.

Loosen the packing nut/bonnet nut: Use an adjustable wrench to carefully loosen this nut by turning it counter-clockwise. You might need to hold the faucet body steady with another tool or a rag to prevent it from turning.
Remove the nut: Once loosened, unscrew and remove the nut completely.

Removing the Faucet Stem

The faucet stem is the part that controls the flow of water. It’s usually a brass or metal cylinder.

Gently pull out the stem: Once the packing or bonnet nut is removed, you should be able to pull the faucet stem straight up and out. Some stems might require a slight turn to dislodge.
Inspect the stem: Look closely at the bottom of the stem. You’ll likely see a rubber washer held in place by a screw. This washer is a very common cause of a dripping kitchen faucet.

Identifying and Replacing Worn Parts

This is where you’ll address the most common reasons for a leaky faucet repair.

The Faucet Washer: The Silent Culprit

The rubber washer at the bottom of the faucet stem is designed to create a seal against the faucet valve seat when the handle is turned off. Over time, this washer can harden, crack, or wear down, preventing a proper seal and leading to a drip.

Remove the old washer: Use a screwdriver to remove the screw holding the washer in place. Then, carefully pry off the old washer.
Clean the stem: Wipe down the faucet stem to remove any debris or mineral buildup.
Install the new washer: Place a new, correctly sized rubber washer onto the stem and secure it with the screw. Ensure it sits flat.
Replace the screw: Make sure the screw is snug but not so tight that it damages the new washer.

The Faucet O-Ring: Another Common Wear Item

Many faucets also have O-rings, which are small rubber rings that provide a seal around the stem or the spout. If an O-ring is damaged or worn, it can cause leaks around the handle base or even from the spout.

Locate the O-ring: Examine the faucet stem and the area where the handle attached. You might find one or more O-rings.
Remove the old O-ring: Use a small screwdriver or a utility knife to carefully lift and remove the old O-ring.
Install the new O-ring: Gently slide a new O-ring of the same size onto the stem or shaft.
Apply plumber’s grease: A thin layer of plumber’s grease on the new O-ring will help it seal better and make future disassembly easier.

The Faucet Valve Seat: The Foundation of the Seal

The faucet valve seat is the metal or brass component inside the faucet body that the washer presses against to stop the water flow. If the valve seat is corroded, pitted, or damaged, even a new washer won’t create a good seal, leading to a constant drip.

Checking the Faucet Valve Seat

Inspect the seat: With the stem removed, look down into the faucet body where the stem was. You should see the valve seat. Feel its surface with your finger. If it feels rough, pitted, or uneven, it likely needs attention.
Cleaning the valve seat: Sometimes, mineral deposits can cause leaks. You can try to clean the valve seat with a mild abrasive cleaner or a vinegar-soaked cloth. For more stubborn deposits, a valve seat dressing tool can be used.
Replacing the valve seat: If the valve seat is significantly damaged, it may need to be replaced. This often requires a specialized valve seat wrench to unscrew and remove the old seat and install a new one. This can be a bit more involved and might be a good point to consider professional help if you’re not comfortable.

Cartridge Replacement Faucet: A Different Mechanism

Some modern two-handle faucets, especially those designed for easier kitchen sink faucet repair, use cartridges instead of traditional stems and washers.

Identifying a Cartridge Faucet

If you pull out the faucet stem and find a plastic or brass cylinder with various grooves or notches, you likely have a cartridge faucet.

Remove the cartridge: Cartridges are typically held in place by a retaining clip or nut. Identify this fastener and remove it. Then, you should be able to pull the cartridge straight out. Some might require a bit of wiggling.
Replace the cartridge: Take the old cartridge to a hardware store to ensure you get an exact match. Install the new cartridge, making sure it’s oriented correctly, and reinsert the retaining clip or nut.

Reassembling the Faucet

Once you’ve replaced the worn parts, it’s time to put everything back together.

Insert the faucet stem: Carefully slide the repaired or new faucet stem back into the faucet body. Ensure it’s seated correctly.
Tighten the packing nut/bonnet nut: Screw the packing nut or bonnet nut back into place and tighten it with your adjustable wrench. Don’t overtighten, as this can damage the stem or make it difficult to turn the handle.
Reattach the faucet handle: Place the faucet handle back onto the stem and secure it with the screw.
Replace the decorative cap: Snap the decorative cap back into place.

Testing Your Repair

After reassembly, it’s time to check your work.

Turn the water supply back on: Slowly open the hot and cold water shut-off valves beneath the sink by turning them counter-clockwise.
Check for leaks: Turn on both faucet handles and let the water run for a few moments. Then, turn them off completely.
Observe: Watch the spout and the base of the handles for any signs of dripping or leaks.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Even with careful work, you might encounter a few snags.

The Faucet Handle is Loose

If your faucet handle is loose after reassembly, it usually means the handle screw needs to be tightened. Ensure the handle is fully seated on the stem before tightening the screw. If the handle itself is stripped, you might need a new handle.

Hot and Cold Handle Leak

If you have a hot and cold handle leak that persists after replacing parts on both sides, it could indicate an issue with the faucet’s overall design or a problem with the main valve body. However, most of the time, a leak from either side is specific to the components within that handle’s assembly. Ensure you’ve addressed the correct stem or cartridge for the leaking handle.

Persistent Drip from the Spout

If the faucet continues to drip from the spout after you’ve replaced washers, O-rings, and even potentially the cartridge or valve seat, it could be a sign of deeper internal damage to the faucet body itself. In such cases, replacing the entire faucet might be the most effective solution.

When to Call a Professional

While most dripping kitchen faucet issues can be resolved with DIY efforts, there are times when it’s best to call in a plumber:

Uncertainty: If you’re unsure about any step or uncomfortable with the disassembly process.
Corroded Parts: If parts are heavily corroded and difficult to remove without risking damage to the faucet or plumbing.
Specialized Tools: If you encounter a problem that requires specialized tools you don’t have or can’t acquire.
Persistent Leaks: If you’ve tried the common fixes and the leak continues, it might indicate a more complex issue requiring professional diagnosis.
Damaged Faucet Body: If the faucet body itself appears damaged or cracked.

Maintaining Your Faucet for Longevity

Regular maintenance can help prevent future dripping kitchen faucet problems and extend the life of your fixture.

Gentle Operation: Avoid forcing faucet handles. Operate them smoothly.
Regular Cleaning: Clean your faucet regularly with mild soap and water. Avoid abrasive cleaners that can damage finishes and internal components.
Address Small Leaks Promptly: Don’t let minor drips turn into major problems. Tackle leaky faucet repair as soon as you notice it.

Common Two-Handle Faucet Types and Their Components

Faucet Type	Primary Sealing Mechanism	Common Replacement Parts
Compression Faucet	Rubber Washer & Seat	Washer, O-ring, Valve Seat
Cartridge Faucet	Cartridge Assembly	Cartridge, O-rings (on cartridge), Retaining Clip/Nut
Ball Faucet	Ball Assembly	O-rings, Springs, Seats, Ball Assembly (less common for DIY)
Ceramic Disc	Ceramic Disc Cartridge	Ceramic Disc Cartridge, Seals (rarely needs repair)

Note: Most older two-handle kitchen faucets utilize a compression mechanism. Newer models may employ cartridge systems.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q1: How often should I replace faucet washers?

A1: Faucet washers don’t have a fixed replacement schedule. They should be replaced when they show signs of wear, such as hardening, cracking, or when you start experiencing drips. This could be anywhere from a few years to over a decade, depending on water quality and usage.

Q2: Can I use Teflon tape on faucet threads for a leaky faucet repair?

A2: Teflon tape is typically used on threaded pipe connections to create a watertight seal. For internal faucet components like stems or cartridges, plumber’s grease is generally recommended to lubricate and aid in sealing O-rings and washers. Using Teflon tape on internal threads could interfere with the proper seating of parts and is usually not necessary or recommended for standard faucet valve seat or stem repairs.

Q3: My faucet handle is very hard to turn. What could be the cause?

A3: A stiff faucet handle is often due to mineral buildup or corrosion on the faucet stem or within the valve body. Sometimes, the packing nut might be overtightened. Removing the stem, cleaning it thoroughly, and applying plumber’s grease can resolve this. If the valve seat is also causing issues, addressing that might help.

Q4: Is it better to replace the whole faucet or just the parts?

A4: If your faucet is old, showing signs of corrosion or significant wear, or if you’ve already done a leaky faucet repair on it multiple times, replacing the entire faucet might be more cost-effective and reliable in the long run. However, for newer faucets experiencing a simple drip, replacing the worn washer, O-ring, or cartridge is a perfectly good solution.

Q5: What is the difference between a faucet O-ring and a faucet washer?

A5: A faucet washer is typically a flat, disc-shaped piece of rubber found at the very bottom of a faucet stem. Its primary job is to press against the faucet valve seat to stop water flow. A faucet O-ring is a circular rubber ring that creates a seal around a cylindrical component, often found around the faucet stem or spout base, to prevent leaks from those specific areas.

By following these detailed steps, you can confidently tackle a dripping two-handle kitchen faucet and enjoy a quieter, more water-efficient kitchen.