How To Fix Leaking Kitchen Faucet: Quick Fixes

A leaking kitchen faucet can be an annoying and wasteful problem, but thankfully, many common leaks can be fixed with simple DIY steps. Can I fix a leaking kitchen faucet myself? Yes, most leaking faucet issues can be tackled by a homeowner with basic tools and a little patience. Who is responsible for fixing a leaky faucet? Typically, the homeowner is responsible for fixing a leaky faucet in their own kitchen. This guide will walk you through the most common causes and solutions for a dripping faucet repair, helping you save water and money. We’ll cover everything from identifying the leak source to performing the necessary kitchen tap fix with step-by-step instructions.

Pinpointing the Leak Source

Before you start any plumbing repair DIY, it’s crucial to figure out exactly where the leak is coming from. The most common culprit for a dripping faucet repair is usually worn-out internal parts.

Common Leak Locations:

Spout: This is the most frequent site of a leak, often caused by a faulty washer or O-ring.
Base of the Spout: A leak here might indicate a problem with the O-rings sealing the spout to the faucet body.
Handle: Leaks around the handle can point to a worn-out cartridge or valve stem.
Under the Sink: While less common for a visible drip, check for loose connections or a faulty supply line.

Essential Tools for Faucet Repair

Having the right tools makes the job much easier and prevents damage to your faucet. Here’s a basic toolkit for most plumbing repair DIY tasks:

Adjustable Wrench: For tightening or loosening various nuts and fittings.
Pliers (Slip-joint or Channel-lock): Useful for gripping and turning.
Screwdrivers (Phillips and Flathead): To remove handle screws and other components.
Allen Wrench Set: Some faucet handles are secured with Allen screws.
Utility Knife or Small Pry Bar: For carefully removing decorative caps or seals.
Rag or Towel: To wipe away water and protect surfaces.
Bucket or Bowl: To catch any residual water.
Plumber’s Grease or Silicone Lubricant: To help seal and lubricate new parts.
Replacement Parts: This could include faucet washers, O-rings, or a new cartridge, depending on your faucet type.

Shutting Off the Water Supply

This is the MOST IMPORTANT step before beginning any kitchen tap fix. Turning off the water prevents flooding.

Steps to Shut Off Water:

Locate Shut-Off Valves: Look for two small valves (usually oval-shaped handles) located under the sink, one for hot water and one for cold.
Turn Valves Clockwise: Firmly turn both handles clockwise until they stop.
Test the Faucet: Turn on the faucet to ensure the water supply is completely off. Let any remaining water drain out.

Fixing a Dripping Spout: The Most Common Issue

A dripping spout is usually due to worn-out internal components. The fix depends on the type of faucet you have.

1. Compression Faucets (Two Handles)

These are older style faucets that rely on rubber washers to stop water flow. A worn-out faucet washer replacement is often the fix.

Steps for Compression Faucet Repair:

Remove the Handle:
- Pry off the decorative cap (often marked H or C) with a utility knife or small screwdriver.
- Unscrew the screw holding the handle in place.
- Pull the handle straight up and off the stem. If it’s stuck, gently wiggle it or use a handle puller.
Remove the Packing Nut and Stem:
- Use an adjustable wrench to unscrew the packing nut, which is located just below where the handle was.
- Once the nut is off, you should be able to unscrew or pull out the faucet stem.
Replace the Washer and Seat:
- At the bottom of the stem, you’ll find a small rubber washer held in place by a screw. Unscrew this screw and remove the old washer.
- Inspect the valve seat (the brass rim where the washer presses). If it’s rough or pitted, it might need resurfacing with a seat dressing tool or replacement. You can often unscrew and replace the seat as well.
- Install a new, correctly sized washer and its screw. Apply a little plumber’s grease to the new washer.
- Ensure the new washer is flat and seated properly.
Reassemble the Faucet:
- Screw the stem back into the faucet body.
- Tighten the packing nut.
- Reattach the handle, screw it in, and replace the decorative cap.

Common Issues with Compression Faucets:

Worn Washer: The most frequent cause of dripping.
Damaged Valve Seat: If the seat is pitted, a new washer won’t seal properly.
Loose Packing Nut: Can cause leaks around the handle.

2. Cartridge Faucets (Single Handle)

Single-handle faucets use a cartridge to control water flow and temperature. A cartridge replacement is often necessary for leaks.

Steps for Cartridge Faucet Repair:

Remove the Handle:
- Look for a small set screw on the side or back of the handle, often hidden under a decorative cap or plug. Use an Allen wrench to loosen and remove this screw.
- Pull the handle straight off.
Remove the Cartridge Retaining Clip or Nut:
- You’ll see a cap or retaining nut holding the cartridge in place. This might be a threaded nut or a clip.
- If it’s a nut, use pliers or an adjustable wrench to unscrew it.
- If it’s a clip, use pliers or a screwdriver to carefully pull it out.
Remove the Cartridge:
- Gently pull the cartridge straight up and out. Some cartridges have a threaded collar that needs to be unscrewed first.
- You might need cartridge pliers to grip and pull stubborn cartridges. Note the orientation of the cartridge before removing it.
Replace the Cartridge:
- Take the old cartridge to a hardware store to ensure you get an exact match. Brands and models vary significantly.
- Install the new cartridge, making sure it’s oriented correctly (there are usually tabs or notches that align with the faucet body).
- Apply a thin layer of plumber’s grease to the O-rings on the new cartridge.
Reassemble the Faucet:
- Replace the retaining clip or nut.
- Reattach the handle and tighten the set screw.

Common Issues with Cartridge Faucets:

Worn Cartridge: The internal seals can degrade over time.
Damaged O-rings: The O-rings on the cartridge are crucial for sealing.

3. Ball Faucets (Single Handle with a Dome)

These faucets have a single handle that controls a rotating metal or plastic ball. Leaks here often involve replacing seals and springs.

Steps for Ball Faucet Repair:

Remove the Handle:
- Locate and loosen the set screw (usually with an Allen wrench) on the side or back of the handle.
- Lift the handle off.
Remove the Cap and Collar:
- Unscrew the threaded cap that covers the ball mechanism. You might need channel-lock pliers for this.
- Beneath the cap, you’ll find a collar. You might need a special faucet tool or a pair of needle-nose pliers to loosen and remove it.
Remove the Ball, Seals, and Springs:
- Lift out the metal or plastic ball.
- Inside the faucet body, you’ll see two rubber seals resting on springs. Use a small screwdriver or pick to carefully remove the old seals and springs.
Replace Seals, Springs, and O-rings:
- Purchase a ball faucet repair kit that matches your faucet model. These kits typically include new seals, springs, and often new O-rings for the spout base.
- Insert the new springs into their housings, then place the new rubber seals on top of the springs, ensuring they are seated correctly. The beveled edge of the seal should face upwards.
- Replace the ball, aligning its slot with the pin inside the faucet body.
Reassemble the Faucet:
- Thread the collar back on.
- Screw the cap back on and tighten it firmly but not excessively.
- Reattach the handle and tighten the set screw.

Common Issues with Ball Faucets:

Worn Seals and Springs: These are the most common failure points.
Damaged Ball: Less common, but a scratched or pitted ball can cause leaks.
Leaky Spout Base: Often due to worn O-rings on the spout itself.

4. Ceramic Disc Faucets (Single Handle, Modern Design)

These are known for their durability. Leaks usually mean the ceramic disc cartridge needs replacing.

Steps for Ceramic Disc Faucet Repair:

Remove the Handle:
- Find the set screw, often concealed under a decorative cap. Remove the cap and loosen the screw with an Allen wrench.
- Lift the handle off.
Remove the Escutcheon Cap and Disc Cartridge:
- Unscrew the decorative metal cap or escutcheon covering the cartridge.
- You’ll see the ceramic disc cartridge. It’s usually held in place by screws or a retaining nut. Remove these.
- Lift the cartridge straight out. Note the orientation of any seals or O-rings.
Replace the Ceramic Disc Cartridge:
- Take the old cartridge to a store to get an exact replacement.
- Clean the inside of the faucet body where the cartridge sits.
- Install the new cartridge, aligning it correctly.
- Replace any screws or the retaining nut.
Reassemble the Faucet:
- Screw the escutcheon cap back on.
- Reattach the handle and tighten the set screw.

Common Issues with Ceramic Disc Faucets:

Damaged Ceramic Disc Cartridge: Although durable, they can crack if the faucet is forcefully closed or if sediment gets lodged.
Worn Inlet Seals: The rubber seals where the water enters the cartridge can wear out.

Addressing Leaks Around the Faucet Base or Handle

If the leak isn’t from the spout but from the base of the handle or the faucet body, the cause is often different. A leaky faucet handle often points to worn O-rings or seals within the faucet body.

Fixing Leaks at the Handle:

Compression Faucets: The packing nut might be loose, or the packing material (like graphite string or a rubber washer) around the faucet valve stem might be worn. Tighten the packing nut slightly. If that doesn’t work, you may need to replace the packing.
Cartridge/Ball/Disc Faucets: Leaks around the handle usually mean the main cartridge or the seals within the faucet body have failed. This often requires a cartridge replacement or, for ball faucets, replacing the seals and springs. For faucet O-ring issues, carefully inspect the O-rings on the cartridge or spout and replace any that appear cracked, stiff, or flattened.

Fixing Leaks at the Spout Base

If water leaks from where the spout meets the faucet body, it’s almost always due to worn O-rings.

Steps to Replace Spout O-rings:

Shut Off Water: Ensure the water supply is turned off.
Remove the Spout:
- This varies by faucet. Some spouts pull straight up after removing a retaining nut or clip. Others might have a set screw.
- For pull-down or pull-out sprayers, disconnect the hose underneath the sink.
Locate and Replace O-rings:
- Once the spout is removed, you’ll see one or more rubber O-rings around the faucet body where the spout sat.
- Carefully remove the old O-rings with a small screwdriver or pick.
- Clean the area.
- Lubricate the new O-rings with plumber’s grease and slide them into place. Make sure they are snug and not twisted.
Reassemble:
- Slide the spout back into place.
- Reinstall any retaining nuts or clips.
- Reconnect spray hoses if applicable.

Aerator Cleaning and Replacement

Sometimes, a sputtering or weak stream, or even a slight leak from the spout end, can be caused by a clogged aerator. The aerator is the small screen at the tip of the spout.

Steps for Aerator Cleaning:

Unscrew the Aerator: Most aerators can be unscrewed by hand or with pliers (wrap the aerator with a cloth to prevent scratching).
Disassemble and Clean: Take the aerator apart (usually it’s just a few pieces: the outer casing, screen, and washer). Rinse all parts under running water. Use an old toothbrush to scrub away any mineral deposits. You can also soak the parts in a vinegar solution to dissolve stubborn buildup.
Inspect: Check the small faucet O-ring inside the aerator assembly. If it’s damaged, replace it.
Reassemble and Reinstall: Put the aerator back together and screw it onto the spout.

If cleaning doesn’t help, or if the aerator is damaged, replacing it is a simple and inexpensive solution.

Troubleshooting Other Water Leak Issues

While the spout and handles are common, water leak troubleshooting might involve checking other areas:

Leaks Under the Sink:

Supply Lines: Check the connections where the flexible supply lines attach to the shut-off valves and the faucet itself. Tighten any loose fittings. If the lines themselves are old or cracked, they need to be replaced.
Sprayer Hose: If you have a spray attachment, check the hose connection underneath the sink.
Drain Connections: While not directly part of the faucet, leaks from drain pipes can sometimes be mistaken for faucet leaks.

When to Call a Professional Plumber

While many faucet leaks are manageable DIY projects, there are times when it’s best to call a professional:

Unfamiliarity: If you’re uncomfortable with any step of the process.
Stubborn Parts: If parts are seized, corroded, or won’t budge without excessive force.
Persistent Leaks: If you’ve tried the common fixes and the leak continues.
Damage to Faucet Body: If you suspect the faucet body itself is cracked or damaged.
Complex Faucet Types: Some high-end or specialized faucets may require professional expertise.
Lack of Proper Tools: If you don’t have the necessary tools and don’t want to buy them for a one-off repair.

Faucet Types and Common Fixes Summary

Here’s a quick reference table for common faucet types and their typical dripping faucet repair solutions:

Faucet Type	Common Leak Cause	Primary Repair Method	Key Parts to Replace
Compression	Worn washer or damaged valve seat	Faucet washer replacement	Washer, Seat
Cartridge	Worn cartridge	Cartridge replacement	Cartridge, O-rings
Ball	Worn seals/springs	Replace seals & springs	Seals, Springs, O-rings (kit)
Ceramic Disc	Damaged ceramic disc cartridge	Cartridge replacement	Ceramic Disc Cartridge
Spout Base Leak	Worn spout O-rings	Replace spout O-rings	Spout O-rings
Handle Leak	Loose packing nut (compression), worn O-rings/cartridge	Tighten nut, replace parts	Packing, O-rings, Cartridge
Sputtering Stream	Clogged aerator	Aerator cleaning	Aerator components, O-ring

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q1: How often should I replace faucet washers and O-rings?
A1: There’s no set schedule. You should replace faucet washers and O-rings when you notice leaks or if they appear worn, cracked, or stiff. Under normal use, they can last for several years.

Q2: My faucet still drips after replacing the washer. What else could it be?
A2: If you have a compression faucet and a new washer didn’t fix the drip, the valve seat is likely the culprit. It might be corroded or pitted. You can try cleaning it with a seat dressing tool or replace the seat itself.

Q3: Can I use plumber’s tape on faucet threads?
A3: Plumber’s tape (PTFE tape) is generally used on threaded pipe connections, not on the internal parts of a faucet like stems or cartridges. For internal faucet seals, plumber’s grease or silicone lubricant is recommended.

Q4: My faucet handle is very stiff. How can I fix it?
A4: A stiff faucet handle can be due to mineral buildup or dried-out lubrication. For cartridge or ball faucets, removing and cleaning the cartridge/ball and applying plumber’s grease to the O-rings can help. For compression faucets, check the packing nut and the stem for grit.

Q5: I can’t find the exact replacement cartridge for my faucet. What should I do?
A5: Take the old cartridge and any identifying information (brand, model number if you know it) to a well-stocked plumbing supply store or a large hardware retailer. They often have staff who can help you find a compatible replacement or an aftermarket option.

Fixing a leaky faucet handle, a persistent drip from the spout, or a leak at the spout base is a rewarding plumbing repair DIY task. By following these steps for water leak troubleshooting and performing a timely kitchen tap fix, you can keep your kitchen running smoothly and efficiently. Remember to always shut off the water supply before starting any work!