How To Fix Leaky Kitchen Faucet Two Handle Easily

Can I fix a leaky kitchen faucet with two handles myself? Yes, you absolutely can! Most leaky two-handle kitchen faucets can be fixed with simple tools and readily available parts, making it a manageable DIY project for many homeowners. This guide will walk you through the process of how to repair kitchen faucet issues and stop faucet leak problems for good.

A dripping faucet might seem like a minor annoyance, but that constant drip, drip, drip can waste a significant amount of water and drive up your utility bills. Fortunately, learning how to fix a two handle tap is well within reach for most DIY enthusiasts. The most common culprits for a leaky two-handle faucet are worn-out washers or faulty cartridges. This comprehensive guide will cover everything you need to know to get your faucet back in tip-top shape.

Why Does My Two-Handle Faucet Drip?

Before we dive into the fixes, let’s look at why your faucet might be dripping. Think of your faucet as having two main jobs: controlling the flow of water and stopping it completely. When it fails at the second job, you get a drip. For two-handle faucets, the “brains” of the operation are usually found within each handle.

Worn-out Washers: In older faucets, rubber washers are responsible for creating a seal to stop water flow. Over time, these rubber washers can harden, crack, or wear down, losing their ability to seal effectively. This is a very common reason for a dripping faucet.
Faulty Faucet Cartridge: Many modern faucets use a cartridge system instead of washers. This cartridge is a self-contained unit that mixes hot and cold water and controls the flow. If the O-rings or seals within the cartridge wear out, it can lead to leaks.
Loose Parts: Sometimes, the problem isn’t worn-out parts but rather parts that have simply become loose due to vibration or improper installation.
Damaged Valve Seat: The valve seat is where the washer or cartridge presses against to stop water. If this metal surface becomes corroded or damaged, it can prevent a proper seal.

Tools You’ll Need for Faucet Repair

Gathering the right tools before you start is key to a smooth faucet repair. Having everything ready will save you trips to the hardware store and make the process much less frustrating.

Adjustable Wrench: This is your go-to tool for loosening and tightening nuts and bolts of various sizes.
Phillips Head Screwdriver: For removing handle screws, which are often Phillips head.
Flathead Screwdriver: Useful for prying off decorative caps or gently separating parts.
Plumber’s Grease (Silicone Grease): This helps lubricate O-rings and seals, making installation easier and prolonging the life of the parts.
Rag or Towel: For wiping up water and protecting your sink basin.
Bucket or Bowl: To catch any residual water when you disconnect parts.
Penetrating Oil (like WD-40): For loosening stubborn or corroded parts.
Replacement Parts: This is crucial! You’ll need the correct faucet washer replacement or a new faucet cartridge for your specific faucet model.

Step-by-Step Guide to Fixing a Leaky Two-Handle Faucet

Let’s get your kitchen faucet fixed! This guide will focus on the most common issues: worn washers and faulty cartridges.

Step 1: Turn Off the Water Supply

This is the most important step. You don’t want to be dealing with a sudden gush of water while you’re trying to work.

Locate the Shut-Off Valves: Look under your kitchen sink. You should see two valves, one for hot water and one for cold water, connected to the water lines that go up to your faucet.
Close the Valves: Turn the handles of both shut-off valves clockwise until they are snug. Don’t overtighten them, as this can damage the valves.
Test the Faucet: Turn on both the hot and cold handles of your faucet to drain any remaining water in the lines and to ensure the water supply is indeed off. If water still flows out, you may need to shut off the main water supply to your house.

Step 2: Disassemble the Faucet Handle

Now, it’s time to get to the internal parts. Each handle will typically have a similar disassembly process.

Remove Decorative Caps: Most faucet handles have small decorative caps that hide the mounting screws. These are often on the top or front of the handle. You can usually pry these off gently with a flathead screwdriver or even your fingernail.
Unscrew the Handle: Once the cap is off, you’ll see a screw. Use the appropriate screwdriver (usually Phillips head) to remove this screw.
Pull Off the Handle: After the screw is removed, the handle should lift straight off. If it’s stuck, you might need to gently wiggle it or use a handle puller tool (though this is rarely necessary for simple repairs). Avoid excessive force, as you could damage the faucet body.

Step 3: Access the Internal Mechanism (Washer vs. Cartridge)

This is where you’ll determine if your faucet uses washers or a cartridge.

If Your Faucet Uses Washers (Older Models):

Remove the Packing Nut: Underneath the handle, you’ll see a hexagonal nut. This is the packing nut. Use your adjustable wrench to loosen and remove it by turning it counter-clockwise.
Remove the Stem Assembly: Once the packing nut is off, you should be able to lift out the stem assembly. This is the part that the handle attaches to.
Locate the Washer: At the bottom of the stem assembly, you’ll see a rubber washer held in place by a screw. This is likely the source of your leak.

If Your Faucet Uses a Cartridge (Modern Models):

Remove the Retaining Clip or Nut: You’ll see a retaining clip or nut holding the cartridge in place.
- Retaining Clip: This is often a U-shaped or C-shaped piece of metal. You might need needle-nose pliers or a small flathead screwdriver to gently pull it out.
- Retaining Nut: Some cartridges are held in by a large nut. Use your adjustable wrench to loosen and remove it.
Remove the Cartridge: With the retaining clip or nut removed, you should be able to pull the cartridge straight up and out. It might require some wiggling. If it’s stubborn, use your adjustable wrench to grip the stem of the cartridge and gently twist and pull. Be careful not to damage the faucet body.

Step 4: Replace the Worn Parts

This is where you’ll perform the actual repair to stop faucet leak.

For Washer-Type Faucets:

Remove the Old Washer: Use a screwdriver to remove the screw holding the old washer in place. Then, pull off the old washer.
Install the New Washer: Place the new faucet washer replacement onto the stem assembly and secure it with the screw. Ensure it sits flat.
Replace the O-ring (Optional but Recommended): While the stem is out, check the O-ring that sits around the stem (usually under the packing nut). If it looks worn or cracked, replace it. Apply a thin layer of plumber’s grease to the new O-ring.
Reassemble the Stem: Place the stem assembly back into the faucet body. Screw the packing nut back on, then reattach the handle and its screw.

For Cartridge-Type Faucets:

Inspect the Old Cartridge: Look at the old faucet cartridge. You’ll likely see worn or damaged O-rings or seals.
Install the New Cartridge: Take your new faucet cartridge and carefully insert it into the faucet body. Make sure it’s oriented correctly – there’s usually a notch or a specific way it needs to sit.
Apply Plumber’s Grease: Lightly coat the O-rings on the new cartridge with plumber’s grease. This will help them seal properly and prevent future wear.
Reinstall Retaining Clip or Nut: Secure the new cartridge by replacing the retaining clip or nut.
Reattach the Handle: Place the handle back onto the stem and secure it with the screw.

Step 5: Reassemble the Faucet and Test

Putting everything back together and checking your work.

Reverse Disassembly: Reassemble the faucet by reversing the steps you took to take it apart.
- For washer-type faucets: Make sure the packing nut is snug, then the handle and screw.
- For cartridge-type faucets: Ensure the retaining clip or nut is secure, then the handle and screw.
Turn Water Supply Back On: Slowly turn the hot and cold water shut-off valves back on (counter-clockwise).
Check for Leaks: Turn on both handles to ensure water flows correctly. Then, turn them off completely and watch for any drips from the spout or around the handles.

If the drip has stopped, congratulations! You’ve successfully performed a faucet repair. If there’s still a leak, you might need to re-check your work or consider that another part might be faulty, such as the valve seat.

Dealing with Stubborn Parts

Sometimes, parts in your faucet can become corroded or stuck over time. Here are some tips if you encounter resistance:

Penetrating Oil: A few sprays of penetrating oil on stubborn nuts or screws can work wonders. Let it sit for a few minutes before trying to loosen them again.
Gentle Tapping: Sometimes, a light tap with the handle of your screwdriver on a stuck nut can help break the corrosion seal.
Correct Tool Size: Ensure you’re using the correct size wrench to avoid stripping nuts or screw heads.

Identifying Your Faucet Model and Finding Replacement Parts

Knowing your faucet’s brand and model number is crucial for finding the correct replacement parts.

Brand Identification: Look for a brand name or logo on the faucet itself. Common brands include Moen, Delta, Kohler, American Standard, and Peerless.
Model Number: The model number is often found on the underside of the faucet body or on the original packaging if you still have it. If not, you might need to take pictures of your faucet and the parts you removed to a plumbing supply store.
Part Type: Once you know the brand and model, you can search online or visit a hardware store for the correct faucet cartridge or faucet washer replacement kit. Many manufacturers offer specific repair kits for their models.

Common Issues and How to Address Them

While worn washers and cartridges are the most frequent causes of a leaky two-handle faucet, other problems can arise.

Leaky Valve Seat

The valve seat is a brass fitting that the washer or cartridge seals against. If it becomes corroded or pitted, it can cause a persistent drip even with new washers.

Identification: After removing the stem assembly (in washer-type faucets), you’ll see the valve seat at the bottom of the faucet body.
Repair: You can try to reface the valve seat using a valve seat dresser tool. This tool grinds away the damaged surface to create a smooth sealing surface. If the seat is severely damaged or integral to the faucet body, you may need to replace the entire faucet.

Dripping from the Base of the Handle

If water is leaking from around the base of the hot and cold handle, it usually indicates a problem with the O-rings on the stem or cartridge.

Diagnosis: Remove the handle and inspect the stem or cartridge.
Solution: Replace the O-rings on the stem or the entire cartridge if it’s a cartridge-style faucet. Apply plumber’s grease to the new O-rings.

Leaky Spout Base

A leak at the base of the spout, where it connects to the faucet body, is often due to worn O-rings in the spout assembly.

Diagnosis: You’ll need to remove the spout. The method varies by faucet design but often involves removing a screw or a retaining nut at the back or underside of the spout.
Solution: Once the spout is off, you’ll see O-rings. Carefully remove the old ones and replace them with new ones, applying plumber’s grease to the new O-rings before reinstallation.

When to Call a Professional

While many leaky faucet issues are DIY-friendly, there are times when it’s best to call a plumber.

Unfamiliarity: If you’re not comfortable with plumbing tasks or the steps outlined above seem daunting, it’s always safer to hire a professional.
Corroded or Damaged Faucet: If your faucet is old, heavily corroded, or parts are breaking off during disassembly, you might be better off replacing the entire faucet.
Persistent Leaks: If you’ve followed these steps and the faucet still leaks, there might be a more complex internal issue that requires professional attention.
Main Water Shut-Off Issues: If you can’t locate or operate your main water shut-off valve, a plumber can assist with that.

Maintaining Your Faucets for Longevity

Regular plumbing maintenance can prevent many common problems.

Gentle Use: Avoid forcing handles or using excessive pressure when turning faucets on or off.
Clean Regularly: Clean your faucet regularly with mild soap and water. Avoid abrasive cleaners that can damage finishes and seals.
Address Small Leaks Promptly: Don’t let a small drip turn into a major problem. Fixing a minor leak is usually much easier and less expensive than dealing with the consequences of a larger leak.

By following these steps, you can confidently tackle most leaky two-handle kitchen faucet problems. This hands-on approach to plumbing maintenance will not only save you money but also give you a sense of accomplishment. Remember to always prioritize safety by turning off the water supply before starting any repairs.

Frequently Asked Questions About Fixing Leaky Two-Handle Faucets

Q1: How long does it take to fix a leaky two-handle faucet?
A1: For most DIYers, fixing a leaky two-handle faucet typically takes between 30 minutes to an hour, assuming you have all the necessary tools and replacement parts readily available. The complexity of the faucet design and the condition of the parts can influence the time required.

Q2: Can I fix a leak on my kitchen faucet without replacing parts?
A2: In some very rare cases, a leak might be caused by a part simply being loose. Tightening components like the packing nut or handle screw might temporarily resolve a minor drip. However, for most persistent leaks, especially a dripping faucet, worn-out parts like faucet washers or a faulty faucet cartridge are the cause, and replacement is usually necessary.

Q3: What is the difference between a faucet cartridge and a faucet washer?
A3: A faucet washer is a simple rubber disc found in older faucet designs. It creates a seal against a valve seat to stop water flow. A faucet cartridge is a more complex, self-contained unit found in many modern faucets. It mixes hot and cold water and controls the flow through internal seals and ports. Both serve to control water flow, but they are different mechanisms for achieving that goal.

Q4: Where can I buy a faucet repair kit?
A4: You can purchase faucet repair kits at most hardware stores, home improvement centers, and online retailers. It’s best to know the brand and model of your faucet to ensure you get the correct kit. If you’re unsure, taking a picture of your faucet or the part you need to replace can help store staff assist you.

Q5: My faucet is still leaking after I replaced the washer/cartridge. What else could be wrong?
A5: If you’ve replaced the primary culprit (washer or cartridge) and the faucet still leaks, the next most common issue is a damaged or corroded valve seat. In washer-style faucets, you can try to reface the valve seat with a valve seat dresser tool. If it’s a cartridge faucet or the valve seat is severely damaged, you might need to replace the entire faucet. It’s also possible that a different O-ring or seal within the faucet assembly is compromised.

Q6: How do I know if my faucet uses washers or a cartridge?
A6: Generally, older faucets (installed before the 1980s or 90s) are more likely to use washers. Faucets manufactured more recently typically use cartridges. You can often tell by the disassembly process: if you remove a stem assembly and find a screw holding a rubber washer at the bottom, it’s a washer-style faucet. If you remove a retaining clip or nut and pull out a single, self-contained unit, it’s a cartridge faucet.

Q7: Can I stop faucet leak without shutting off the main water supply?
A7: You can typically stop the water flow to your kitchen faucet by turning off the individual shut-off valves located under the sink for both hot and cold water. Only if these valves are non-functional or you cannot locate them would you need to turn off the main water supply to your house. Always test the faucet after turning off the shut-off valves to confirm the water is off.

Q8: My handles are hard to turn. What should I do?
A8: Hard-to-turn handles are often a sign of worn-out O-rings or dried-out lubricant within the stem or cartridge. Replacing the O-rings and applying fresh plumber’s grease during reassembly should resolve this issue. Ensure you are using the correct parts for your faucet model.

Q9: How do I know which faucet washer replacement to buy?
A9: For washer-style faucets, you’ll typically need to remove the old washer to match its size and shape. Washers are usually described by their diameter and thickness (e.g., 1/2 inch flat washer, 3/8 inch beveled washer). It’s helpful to take the old washer to the hardware store with you. Some faucet repair kits include a variety of common washer sizes.

Q10: Is it worth repairing an old leaky faucet, or should I just replace the whole faucet?
A10: This depends on the age and condition of your faucet, as well as your budget. If the faucet is relatively new and the leak is minor, a simple repair is often cost-effective. However, if the faucet is old, shows signs of significant wear, has multiple leaks, or is aesthetically outdated, replacing the entire unit might be a better long-term solution. Factor in the cost of repair parts and your time versus the cost of a new faucet.