DIY: How To Put Up Crown Molding On Kitchen Cabinets

Can you put crown molding on kitchen cabinets? Yes, absolutely! Adding crown molding to your kitchen cabinets is a fantastic DIY project that can elevate the look of your entire kitchen, making it feel more custom and high-end. This guide will walk you through the process of cabinet crown molding installation, turning your everyday cabinets into decorative statements. We’ll cover everything from choosing the right molding to the final touches of attaching cabinet trim.

Why Add Crown Molding to Kitchen Cabinets?

Kitchen cabinet molding, often referred to as crown molding for cabinets, serves several purposes. Firstly, it’s a purely aesthetic enhancement. It creates a visual transition between the top of your cabinets and the ceiling, softening the often-harsh lines and giving a more finished, polished appearance. Secondly, it can help disguise imperfections on the ceiling or the top edges of your cabinets. Finally, it adds a touch of architectural detail that can significantly boost your kitchen’s style and perceived value. This guide is all about DIY cabinet crown molding, empowering you to achieve a professional look yourself.

Materials and Tools You’ll Need for Installation

Before you dive into installing upper cabinet molding, gather all your supplies. Having everything ready will make the process smoother and less frustrating.

Essential Materials:

Crown Molding: Choose a style that complements your kitchen’s overall design. Consider the depth and projection to ensure it doesn’t overpower your cabinets or create cleaning headaches. Common materials include wood (pine, poplar, oak), MDF, and even polyurethane.
Cabinet Molding Adhesive: A strong, flexible adhesive specifically designed for trim and molding is crucial for securing the molding.
Finishing Nails: Small, slender nails that can be easily hammered in and then concealed.
Wood Filler or Caulk: For filling nail holes and sealing gaps.
Sandpaper: Various grits (e.g., 120, 220) for smoothing edges and surfaces.
Primer and Paint/Stain: To match your existing cabinets or create a new look.

Essential Tools:

Miter Saw: This is your most important tool for making precise angled cuts, especially for cabinet trim corners. A compound miter saw is ideal.
Measuring Tape: Accurate measurements are key to success.
Pencil: For marking your cuts.
Stud Finder: To locate wall studs for secure mounting where applicable.
Level: To ensure your molding is straight.
Hammer or Brad Nailer: A brad nailer makes the job faster and easier.
Safety Glasses: Always protect your eyes.
Caulking Gun: For applying adhesive.
Putty Knife: For applying wood filler.
Gloves: For protection.
Damp Cloths: For wiping away excess adhesive or caulk.

Planning Your Cabinet Molding Installation

Proper planning is paramount for a successful kitchen cabinet molding project. Think of it as designing the crown for your cabinets.

Measuring Your Cabinets:

Measure Each Cabinet Run: Measure the length of each section of upper cabinets. Don’t forget to measure around any obstacles like range hoods or decorative soffits.
Account for Corners: If you have inside or outside corners, plan how your molding will meet. Mitered cuts are standard for achieving seamless joints.
Add a Little Extra: It’s always wise to purchase about 10-15% more molding than your measurements to account for mistakes, test cuts, and any complex angles.

Choosing the Right Molding Style:

The style of your crown molding for cabinets significantly impacts the overall aesthetic.

Simple Cove Molding: A classic, understated option that works well in many kitchen styles.
Ogee Molding: Features an “S” shape, adding a more decorative touch.
Roped Molding: Adds an ornate, traditional feel.
Applied Molding: Sometimes, you might use a flatter piece of molding and then add a decorative trim piece on top for a layered look, which is another way to approach how to install decorative cabinet molding.

Consider the scale of your kitchen. A very small kitchen might look overwhelmed by a large, ornate molding, while a grand kitchen can handle a more substantial profile.

Cutting Techniques for Cabinet Trim Corners:

The most critical part of cabinet trim corners is the cutting. You’ll be using your miter saw for this.

Inside Corners: For an inside corner, each piece of molding will be cut with a 45-degree miter. The longer edge of the molding will face the wall. You’ll set your miter saw to a 45-degree angle.
Outside Corners: Similar to inside corners, outside corners also require a 45-degree miter, but the angle is reversed. The shorter edge of the molding will face outwards.
Compound Miters: For more complex moldings that have a profile (they aren’t flat against the wall), you might need to use compound miter settings, which involve both a bevel angle and a miter angle. Consult your saw’s manual for specific settings.

Table: Common Miter Saw Settings for Crown Molding

Corner Type	Miter Angle	Bevel Angle
Inside Corner	45°	0°
Outside Corner	45°	0°
Inside Corner (Ceiling Mounted)	31.6°	11.25°
Outside Corner (Ceiling Mounted)	31.6°	11.25°

Note: These settings are for standard crown molding that sits at an angle between the wall and ceiling. For cabinet molding that sits directly on top of cabinets, the angles might be simpler, often just 45-degree miters.

Step-by-Step Guide to Installing Crown Molding on Kitchen Cabinets

Now, let’s get to the cabinet crown molding installation itself. This is where your planning comes to fruition.

Step 1: Preparing the Cabinets

Clean the Cabinet Tops: Ensure the top surface of your cabinets is clean, dry, and free of dust or grease. This is crucial for the cabinet molding adhesive to bond properly.
Inspect for Damage: Check for any loose cabinet doors or drawers and secure them.

Step 2: Making the First Cuts

Test Cuts: Before cutting your main pieces, make test cuts on scrap pieces of molding. This is vital for ensuring your miter saw is calibrated correctly and for practicing your cuts on the specific molding profile you’re using.
Measure and Mark: Measure the length of the first cabinet run and transfer that measurement to your molding. Remember to account for the angle of your cuts if the molding extends around a corner.
Cut the First Piece: Carefully make your first cut. For a flat run, this would be a straight 90-degree cut. For a corner, this would be your 45-degree miter.

Step 3: Applying Adhesive and Attaching the Molding

Apply Adhesive: Run a generous bead of cabinet molding adhesive along the back of the molding piece where it will contact the cabinet or wall. You can also apply it to the cabinet top.
Position the Molding: Carefully lift the molding and press it firmly into place on the cabinet top.
Secure with Nails: Use your hammer or brad nailer to drive finishing nails through the molding into the cabinet. Space nails about 16-24 inches apart. For best results when attaching cabinet trim, aim to nail into the cabinet frame or doors where possible for a solid hold. If you’re attaching molding directly to the cabinet top, ensure the nails go into the cabinet structure.

Step 4: Working Around Corners and Obstacles

This is where cabinet trim corners become a practical skill.

Inside Corners: Cut your molding with a 45-degree miter, ensuring the longer edge of the molding (the one that will be visible) is on the outside. Fit the first piece snugly into the corner. Then, measure and cut the next piece with a complementary 45-degree miter so it meets the first piece perfectly. Apply adhesive and nail it in place.
Outside Corners: For outside corners, cut the molding with a 45-degree miter so the shorter edge is on the outside. Fit the pieces snugly and secure them.
Range Hoods and Other Obstacles: For areas around range hoods or other built-in features, you’ll need to measure carefully and make precise cuts to fit around them. This might involve compound cuts or a series of smaller pieces.

Step 5: Installing the Remaining Molding

Continue Section by Section: Work your way around the entire kitchen, repeating the process of measuring, cutting, applying adhesive, and nailing.
Check for Level: Use your level frequently to ensure the molding is straight as you install it. A slight sag can be noticeable.

Step 6: Filling and Finishing

Once all the molding is in place, it’s time for the finishing touches that make it look professionally done.

Fill Nail Holes: Use wood filler or a matching putty to fill all the nail holes. Let it dry completely.
Caulk Gaps: Apply a thin bead of paintable caulk along any seams where the molding meets the cabinet or ceiling, and also along any internal corners. This hides small imperfections and creates a seamless look. Smooth the caulk with a damp finger or caulk tool.
Sand: Lightly sand the wood filler and any rough edges with fine-grit sandpaper (220 grit). Wipe away dust with a tack cloth or a damp cloth.
Prime and Paint/Stain: Apply a coat of primer, followed by two coats of paint or stain that matches your cabinets. Take your time and apply thin, even coats.

Tips for a Professional Finish

Use Quality Materials: Better quality molding and adhesives will result in a better final product.
Sharp Blades: Always use sharp blades on your miter saw. A dull blade can splinter the molding.
Practice Makes Perfect: If you’re new to using a miter saw, practice your cuts on scrap wood before you start on your actual molding.
Two-Person Job: For longer pieces or when working at heights, having a second person to help hold the molding can be very beneficial, especially when installing upper cabinet molding.
Consider Nail Placement: Try to place nails where they can be easily concealed by paint or caulk.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Even with the best planning, you might encounter a few hiccups.

Gaps in Corners: Small gaps in cabinet trim corners can usually be fixed with caulk. For larger gaps, you might need to re-cut the pieces.
Molding Won’t Stay Put: This usually means the adhesive isn’t strong enough or there wasn’t enough of it, or the nails aren’t securing it properly. Ensure you’re using an appropriate cabinet molding adhesive and that nails are driven into solid wood.
Uneven Sections: If a section of molding looks crooked, it might be necessary to carefully remove it (using a pry bar and putty knife to avoid damaging the cabinet) and re-install it straight.

Frequently Asked Questions About Cabinet Crown Molding

Q1: What is the best way to attach cabinet trim?
The best way to attach cabinet trim, including crown molding, is typically a combination of a strong cabinet molding adhesive and finishing nails or staples. The adhesive provides a robust bond, while the nails offer immediate stability during the drying process and long-term support.

Q2: Can I use wood glue for cabinet crown molding installation?
While wood glue is strong for wood-to-wood joints, it’s often too rigid for molding that might experience slight expansion and contraction with temperature and humidity changes. A flexible cabinet molding adhesive is generally recommended for better long-term performance and to avoid cracks.

Q3: How do I measure for crown molding on cabinets?
Measure the length of each cabinet section that will receive molding. For corners, you’ll need to account for the miter angle. It’s crucial to measure accurately and add extra material for test cuts and potential errors.

Q4: What are the common types of cabinet molding?
Common types include simple cove molding, more decorative ogee molding, applied moldings (where a flat trim is enhanced with a decorative element), and custom-profiled moldings. The choice depends on your kitchen’s style and your preference.

Q5: Is it difficult to install crown molding on kitchen cabinets?
With the right tools, patience, and this guide, DIY cabinet crown molding is a manageable project for most homeowners. The most challenging part is often making accurate miter cuts for cabinet trim corners.

By following these detailed steps, you can successfully transform your kitchen cabinets with the elegant addition of crown molding. This project is a rewarding DIY endeavor that offers a significant aesthetic upgrade to your home.